Well it would seem that I should use more logic and less stupidity when working on this project. I offered up the floor pan sheet which is laser cut to the correct dimensions, and despite me measuring the new outriggers correctly you can see pictured here that it’s well out. I need an even 20mm sill lip in order to mount the body on. The build manual does state to check the width and narrow the outriggers if needed. So I just needed to reduce the width of the centre support and adjust the angle of the front side profile slightly. Bit of a ball ache really but all part of the learning curve I suppose. Still it should make constructing the other side much easier and straightforward.So another few hours messing on and it was sorted, a nice 20mm even sill flange front to back. Now to start on the other side. The floor pan on these pictures is just measured and set in the correct place then clamped onto the chassis and outriggers allowing the sills and other dimensions to be checked first. Once the other side frame is complete the floor pan is then welded to the chassis which will also add to its increasing strength. If you are going to attempt a build yourself of this car then measuring and clamping the floor pan should be the first thing you do and will make fitting your front, centre and back outrigger considerably easier to construct, whilst keeping within the tolerance for the dimensions.
I intend to hit the whole chassis again with the bed liner texture paint, as it has taken some abuse during the construction stages where I have had to strip it back to allow the welding to penetrate. I will treat and prep the bare surfaces first to a good 2k primer then top it with the same texture black bed liner. I can’t really do this until the ambient temperature increases slightly as today was barbaric in the garage and I’d be surprised if the temp was anything above 2/3 degrees…. Still the enthusiasm of progress kept me warm….. sort of!
Now the chassis has some considerable weight to it, and manhandling and flipping it over was getting bloody tricky on your own. It wasn’t particularly easy before however now with the added weight of the diff, main spring, new floor and outriggers it’s nye on impossible to lift and shift where you need it to be in order for access for welding. Still it’s nearly time to build up the running gear and get the whole thing rolling, that will be a good milestone.
I’m happy with how this is turning out and my confidence in welding is massively improved, but I’m slightly sick of the constant weld, grind, weld, grind, tidy up process already. The satisfaction of constructing something substantial out of metal is immense, however the construction process is a tad laborious really… all for the greater good mind.
Next up is the front body mounts, which double up as the radiator fixings also. These are simply twin flange bit of steel that cap the front chassis rails, where we removed the original bonnet hinge brackets.
I have retained the radiator from the donor car and so now it’s time to start getting it overhauled and ready to be used again, I have considered an alloy replacement, however the majority on the market are superseded units for the Spitfire and are considerably wider than original and will not really be suitable for this project… that and the cost of the bloody things are barbaric in comparison to an original reconditioned unit. The second picture here shows the radiator support bracket that will be welded to the body bracket, it will give me ample room for fitting the radiator and allow some further fixing points for a cooling fan (either push or pull) I’m intending to totally over engineer the cooling system for this project. My Cobra is great when moving but sat idle for any medium to long period and the overheat becomes a serious concern, and the cooling fan is grafting at full capacity… so not really very practical. Now I know this won’t have a whacking great V8 in it, but I want it to be robust enough to sit on idle all day long with no airflow through the nose cone and still hold temperature correctly. This will simply be a basic thermostatic controller within the top hose kicking the fan in and out as needed, and secondly the fan fitted must pull/push the capacity of air requiring to sufficiently cool the radiator. The original viscous fan I think will be pretty much redundant on this setup. I have been researching about changing the viscous unit to a standard direct drive fan off the water pump, however with the movement of the radiator and engine within this car I can’t see at this point how it will be anywhere near useful if fitted and so I plan to just do away with it all together. Lots more to do before I start considering these decisions mind… like where I’m going to put my size 12 feet!!!
Again with the body tub offers onto the chassis it was mandatory to sit in and make “brum brum” noises with my youngest sat shotgun, thinking I’m a total wally. Still it was a tad exciting to imagine what the finished product is going to look/feel like and start to get a feel of how it’s all going to be.
If anything I’m a tad daunted with just how much work and construction is actually required building this, and as I’ve said before it is not just a bolt together kit, so I hope my brain and body hold out long enough to complete it…. And my bank balance!
Now I really need to start getting all my running gear sorted so I can start the rolling chassis, this is going to be a relatively tidy sum of parts along with adjustable suspension etc… but again, all very exciting and enjoyable.
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