Clamping Down On Power

 

This is really just a quick one task update…. However it has been a full days work to fabricate and fit. I want to fit the battery for the Spyder in the boot. This will help balance the car a little and add some much needed weight on the transverse rear spring, helping with the wheel camber. 

My idea for the battery tray/clamp is just a simple fabrication made from some 25mm angled steel. I firstly just measured up the battery and gave a little extra for potential future replacements being slightly different base size, then made up three sides cut on a 45degree to keep it nice and square. Then I welded an off cut of some flat bar towards the front for strength and rigidity before moving onto the clamp. 

The front section is cut so that it will slide in and out of the side angles and can be torqued up using some M8 bolts through the front onto some retaining nuts welded onto each side section. 

Then with the basic frame made I added some bits of round bar on the front length and back to act as the clamp against the base of the battery. It has all worked out exceptionally well really and when tightened up it really gets a good grip on the battery nice and tight. I tarted it all up with some black paint to keep it all looking nice then moved onto the boot floor and making a suitable fixing position. 

The boot floor is literally just fiberglass which is strong and solid but does/will have some flex to it when rolling down the road. I wanted to beef everything up and give a good solid base for the battery clamp. I simply used a bit of flat bar steel which has been drilled through to two supporting brackets under the body tub which are fixed directly onto the end of each chassis leg. The I removed the battery and welded the battery tray to the supporting bar on the boot floor. 

A quick test fit of everything to check clearances etc… then I did a final fit with a good used of some PU bond on the bottom support bar and the battery clamp flat bar. This will help further holding it all down, and also help absorbing any vibrations that could be irritating when driving. 

Overall it’s all really good and strong and holds the battery solid as a rock… which is exactly what I wanted. 

 So yes only a small update, but a full days work and another job ticked off the list. 

Indicate The Correct Way

 

Back in October last year I settled on some indicators that I was really happy with, aesthetically. And after stripping them down and adding an additional wire for an earth (fibreglass body remember) I went around provisionally making attempts to fit them. Whilst they are relatively small and subtle the threaded section was not long enough to pass through the body tub and fix in position with the nut on the back. That and the fact each position on the body for the indicators is curved and has a non flat mounting face, which would sit them at a weird angle. I initially started making small offcuts of heater hose sliced to an angle that might have allowed me space the retaining nut slightly and create a fixing…. However it was all a bit sloppy and I wasn’t happy with it all. 

So my next attempt was to use some threaded tube to create a mounting spigot. I have painted all the casings and sealed the lenses with some silicone to reduce any water ingress that will degrade the bulb holder and terminals. Then after I was happy with the position against the bodytub I opened up the holes to the same as the outside diameter of the threaded tube 13mm. I have threaded each indicator into the tube section first and marked the stop position, so that when fixed onto the body they will align in the correct position, then I made up some small rectangle plates to be welded to the threaded tube.

The first attempt I welded the tab to the end of the threaded tube, but that then protruded the indicator to far out from the body for my liking so after a little faffing around I relocated the mounting plate to about halfway along the threaded tube. I obviously did this on all four indicators and when I was happy with the positioning and fitting I simply bonded the mounting plate through the body with a great dollop of PU sealant on the back. 

This has worked exceptionally well and once cured it leaves me a small spigot of threaded tube sticking through the body tub and will be a perfect fixing for the indicators. The protruding section will easily paint the same colour when it comes to that task later on down the line and overall I’m now really happy with how this are fitted and look. 

The fixing back plates on the front two indicators had to be bent and trimmed a little to accept the curvature of the body but the PU sealant (when cured) will hold them firmly and will also get painted to blend in. 

The rear indicators have bonded into the boot area also extremely well and both look perfect for the desired look I’m trying to achieve. So overall I’m now really happy with the fixing of these and they should be more than durable for the abuse they will see from the weather and general road thrash.:

I have also took the chance today to paint up all the bits from the last update (radiator mountings) and now that is “potential” fitted for the final time…. Fingers crossed. 

I hooked a battery up to the fan wires also just to confirm that it actually worked…. And it does, phew! 

Getting Hotter So Cooling Down

 

Sorry for the long delay since the last update, life has been busy and expensive recently, so haven’t had much time to progress. Still here we go with some updates. 

The original Spitfire radiator was all sorted via a third party well over a year ago now so it’s all pressure tested and ready for use. I need to make some new fixings and mounts for a cooling fan as the fitment will be nothing like the original setup and mounted into the chassis in a totally different position location. The fan itself is seriously overkill for the application, however I got it a good while back from a mate for only £25 and will certainly be sufficient for the job… and I have learnt from my Cobra build it is better to be over effective rather than under. I started off making four brackets, from 2mm alloy that will wrap round the side of the radiator, these will be held with some cotton/rubber bobbins through the original side m6 fixings. These rubber mounts will also act as vibration absorbing for the radiator on the chassis brackets (that still need welding on) so reduce the risk of fracturing the radiator. 

The four brackets are fairly straightforward to fabricate and we’re all made in a cardboard template first. Once in the metal they fitted perfectly and have been painted up to look good. I am a tad concerned about the size off the cooling fan and the lack of natural air flow getting restricted through the radiator.. however with me converting to a thermostatic switch control this should allow hours of stationary running the engine (without natural air flow) and the fan will kick in and out accordingly.. and as mentioned before, it’s pushing significantly more air than required as it really is much bigger than requirements for the job in hand.

Next I have to carefully plan the side fixing plate which will be welded to the front of the chassis leg. This is simply drilled to accept the other stud of the rubber M6 mounts and then bolted on with some nylock bolts. Once I had both sides mounted I had to start planning and measuring up the fixing point on the front of the chassis legs. When I was happy with the positioning I marked up where the right angles of the brackets located. So first off I intended to weld these brackets on, however this would not allow future removal of the radiator for whatever reason. I considered fitting a few rivnuts either side so I could bolt the brackets to the chassis legs….. however access for the drill and setting tool for the rivnuts was impossible so a new plan was needed. 

I used some off cuts of 6mm steel bar to create a plate that could be welded onto the chassis legs, however these plates would have two M8 studs welded on to then allow me to bolt the brackets on from the front nose cone. You can see pictured below one of the new stud brackets fitted to the radiator bracket for the offside. 

With these two stud brackets fitted it was back to marking and measuring up the welding position on then chassis. I started to weld them into place, however I ran out of gas for my welder so I just did a few tack welds to hold as opposed to lots of pigeon shit welds that would not hold. I’ll have to come back and finish these welds off along with tarting it all up and making it look pretty, however the plan of removal for maintenance was working fairly well. 

I was able to pop the full radiator and fan application into position now, and I’m fairly pleased with how it all looks. Access from behind to fit the coolant pipes will be straightforward and access to the front bolts for the brackets is also fairly easy. I will have to revise my front grill idea now as I also need to make this removable to access all of this should I need too. 

I intend to get a header/expansion tank that will be fitted to the bulkhead which will now be the high point within the cooling system to help it bleed and circulate nicely. This will be fitted with a pressure cap of the correct value and also a cap on the original radiator with a higher pressure release value as a reserve contingency just in case. 

Im happy with how this has gone and although the radiator is fixed extremely well I’m also considering adding a support bar from the top of the radiator side brackets back onto the chassis tower mounts just to belt and braces everything really, when the system is full it could be a little top heavy on the fixing studs so they will beef everything up. I have some metal bits ready but will have to wait for welding gas again now. 

I have a few other bits on the go, but cant update you on those bits until they are done and again they will need gas for the welder… sit tight for another update soon!